Difference between revisions of "PracticalTheExpandedToolbox/Lab2"

From DigitalCraft_Wiki
Jump to navigation Jump to search
 
(13 intermediate revisions by one other user not shown)
Line 5: Line 5:
 
* ''breadboard''<ref>[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_Q5s9AhCR0 Parallax breadboard tutorial]</ref>
 
* ''breadboard''<ref>[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_Q5s9AhCR0 Parallax breadboard tutorial]</ref>
 
* ''dead bug style''<ref>[http://www.ralfschreiber.com/solarsound/solarsound.html Solar Sound Module by Ralf Schreiber]</ref>
 
* ''dead bug style''<ref>[http://www.ralfschreiber.com/solarsound/solarsound.html Solar Sound Module by Ralf Schreiber]</ref>
* ''wire wrapping''<ref>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_wrap Wire wrapping</ref>
+
* ''wire wrapping''<ref>[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_wrap Wire wrapping]</ref> <ref>[http://www.nutsvolts.com/magazine/article/wire_wrap_is_alive_and_well]</ref>
 +
 
 
* ''prototype board (e.g. perfboard or stripboard)''<ref>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfboard</ref>
 
* ''prototype board (e.g. perfboard or stripboard)''<ref>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfboard</ref>
* ''volumetric circuits''<ref>http://hackaday.com/2014/09/13/volumetric-circuits Some examples on Volumetric circuits]</ref><ref>[https://vimeo.com/59829961 Peter Vogel, The sound of shadows]</ref>  
+
* ''volumetric circuits''<ref>[http://hackaday.com/2014/09/13/volumetric-circuits Some examples on Volumetric circuits]</ref><ref>[https://vimeo.com/59829961 Peter Vogel, The sound of shadows]</ref>  
 
* ''Etching a Printed Circuit Board (PCB)''<ref>[http://interactionstation.wdka.hro.nl/wiki/Etching several etching techniques]</ref><ref>[http://dr-lex.be/hardware/tonertransfer.html PCB making, Toner transfer method]</ref>.
 
* ''Etching a Printed Circuit Board (PCB)''<ref>[http://interactionstation.wdka.hro.nl/wiki/Etching several etching techniques]</ref><ref>[http://dr-lex.be/hardware/tonertransfer.html PCB making, Toner transfer method]</ref>.
  
There are still other ways of making circuits, for example using the vinyl cutter to cut copper traces, using conductive fabric, etc. A nice overview of other alternative methods you can find at the great website of KobaKant: [http://www.kobakant.at/DIY How To Get What You Want]. Besides a lot of other interesting stuff (browse through it!!) the traces making sections you can find here: [http://www.kobakant.at/DIY/?cat=38 Traces].
+
There are still other ways of making circuits, for example using the vinyl cutter to cut copper traces, using conductive fabric, etc. A nice overview of other alternative methods you can find at the great website of KobaKant: [http://www.kobakant.at/DIY How To Get What You Want]. Besides a lot of other interesting stuff (browse through it!!) the traces making sections you can find here: [http://www.kobakant.at/DIY/?cat=38 Kobakant section on Traces].
  
 +
It is even possible to (almost) entirely knit your circuit: [http://ebrukurbak.net/the-knitted-radio/ The Knitted Radio], [http://ebrukurbak.net/draperyfm/ Drapery FM].
  
<references />
+
In this lab you will be making a circuit with your preferred method with exception of the breadboard. The circuit presented here is a touch sensitive noise making circuit as we build on a breadboard during the first class. In the schematic and PCB board layout file you'll find the right value for each component. Below is a description of the SMD type of components if you are making the circuit on a PCB. If you use any of the other methods you'll probably want the ''through hole'' components. These can be obtained in the Interaction Station. Take the list with component values with you:
  
== Description ==
+
{| class="wikitable"
In this lab you will use a Digital MultiMeter (DMM) to take measurements in a simple circuit.
+
|-
 +
! Component
 +
! Indicator in schematic and board layout
 +
! Value
 +
! Has polarity
 +
|-
 +
| IC
 +
| 555
 +
| NE555
 +
| Yes
 +
|-
 +
| Resistor
 +
| R1
 +
| 220k (224)
 +
| No
 +
|-
 +
| Resistor
 +
| R2
 +
| 10k (103)
 +
| No
 +
|-
 +
| Resistor
 +
| R3, R4
 +
| 1k (102)
 +
| No
 +
|-
 +
| Resistor
 +
| R6
 +
| 0R (0)
 +
| No
 +
|-
 +
| Resistor
 +
| R5, R7
 +
| Do not mount (yet)
 +
| No
 +
|-
 +
| Capacitor
 +
| C1
 +
| 10uF (dark brown)  
 +
| No
 +
|-
 +
| Capacitor
 +
| C2
 +
| 0.1uF (micro Fahrad) (brown)
 +
| No
 +
|-
 +
| Capacitor
 +
| C3
 +
| 1nF (nano Fahrad) (light grey)
 +
| No
 +
|-
 +
| LED
 +
| Led1, Led2
 +
| -
 +
| Yes (green dot (cathode) points down towards board edge)
 +
|}
  
* First read the required reading material indicated in the schedule for the Intro into Electronics: [[PracticalTheExpandedToolbox#Schedule]]
+
You will also need a 9V battery clip and a speaker.
* Read the SparkFun tutorial on [https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter using the a Digital Multi Meter]
 
* Keep track of you measurements and note these down on your WiKi.  
 
  
If you don't know how to use the WiKi yet note them down elsewhere so you can note them on the WiKi after the WiKi introduction.
+
== The circuit ==
  
For the current and voltage measurements you need to create a simple circuit on for example a breadboard consisting of a battery, led and a resistor:
+
<gallery>
[[File:led_breadboard.png|200px|thumb|center|Example LED circuit for voltage and current measurements]]
+
Image:One half atari punk console sch.png|Schematic (PNG)
Remember an LED has polarity. If you hook it up the wrong way it won't light up. The long leg is the anode or +, the short leg is the cathode or -. See https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/light-emitting-diodes-leds#how-to-use-them for more details on LEDs and how to use them.
+
File:One half atari punk console.pdf|Schematic (PDF)
 +
Image:One half atari punk console.png|Board with component values (PDF)
 +
File:One_half_atari_punk_console_single.pdf|Board for printing (40x40mm PDF)
 +
File:One half atari punk console panel.pdf|Panel with 6 boards for printing (100x160 PDF)
 +
</gallery>
  
=== Measuring Voltage ===
+
== Components ==
What you need (ask at the Interaction Station):
+
You will find the following components in the circuit:
* Multimeter
 
* 9 Volt battery ''(5V in the tutorial)''
 
* 9 Volt battery clip for in a breadboard
 
* 470 Ohm resistor ''(1K Ohm in the tutorial)''
 
* LED
 
* breadboard
 
  
* Carry out the SparkFun tutorial section about measuring voltage: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter#measuring-voltage .
+
There are two main types of component mounting: DIP<ref>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dual_in-line_package</ref> (also known as through hole) and SMD<ref>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface-mount_technology</ref>.
  
'''Note 1:''' instead of the 5V breakout board the tutorial uses you are using a 9V battery. This means your measured values will differ from the results in the tutorial. Your resistor value and LED forward voltage will differ as well.'''
+
* DIP or through hole components have ''legs'' you stick through holes in the PCB. You solder the legs to the bottom side of the PCB.
<br/>
+
* SMD components have legs you solder on the component side of the PCB. Hence you do not need to drill any holes. This method of mounting components is the standard way these days as components can be much smaller and fabrication is cheaper (less drilling and plating of holes). Many more advanced components only come in SMD packages so it is a valuable skill to be able to work with and solder these components. However, as SMD components are usually meant to be mounted by machines some are difficult or too small to do by hand, so when looking for components be sure to carefully check which package you select. A good overview of package types, sizes and names can be found on Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface-mount_technology#Packages
 
<br/>
 
<br/>
  
=== Measuring resistance ===
+
=== 555 Timer ===
What you need (ask at the Interaction Station):
+
The 555 timer is a very versatile chip. It can be used to create sound (like in this Lab), blink lights, fade lights, turn things on for a short or long time many more. Many things you would want to use e.g. an Arduino for can be solved by this little chip alone or in combination some other circuits resulting in a much smaller and cheaper solution!
* Multimeter
 
* 3 random resistors
 
* 3 resistors of the same value
 
* breadboard
 
  
Resistors come in a wide variety of values, tolerances, wattage and packages. The most common (hobby)resistor is the 1/4 Watt resistor with a tolerance of 5% (meaning the real value of the resistor can be 5% lower or higher than the indicated value). These resistors are usually beige in colour. At the Interaction Station you will probably get resistors that are light blue. These are still 1/4 Watt resistors but have a tolerance of 1%.
+
The 555 timer chip, like many other chips come in a variety of packages. The most common for this chip are DIP and SOIC. We will use the SOIC version in this lab.
  
Resistors come in specific values determined by their tolerance range. The range for the 5% tolerance is called the E24 range. The E96 range is for the higher precision 1% tolerance range. For an overview of corresponding values and other ranges see for example: http://logwell.com/tech/components/resistor_values.html
+
<gallery>
 +
Image:Signetics NE555N.JPG|DIP
 +
Image:555.jpg|SOIC8 (we will use this one)
 +
</gallery>
 +
<br/>
 +
=== Resistor (R)===
 +
The resistors we will use are 3216 (1206 imperial) size resistors. This means these are 3.2mm long and 1.6mm wide. There are a variety of sizes available<ref>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface-mount_technology#Rectangular_passive_components</ref>. For hand soldering I would not recommend to smaller than 1608 (0603 imperial) although 1005 (0402 imperial) is still possible with some practice. Anything smaller is only practical for machine assembled boards.  
  
The value of a resistor is encoded on the resistor with [https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/resistors#decoding-resistor-markings color bands]. You can use a resistor color code calculator like: http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/tools/resistor-color-code-calculator/ Resistors of the E24 range (5% tolerance) have a 4 band marking. The blue resistors of the E96 range have a 5 band marking. Be sure to select the right one (4 or 5 strip in the calculator).
+
<gallery>
 +
Image:330px-SMT_sizes,_based_on_original_by_Zureks.svg.png|resistor and capacitor sizes
 +
Image:1206 resistor.jpg|A 3216 size resistor as we used in the lab
 +
</gallery>
  
* First try to figure out the values you have been given using the colored bands on the resistors.
+
The resistors have a marking on them indicating the resistance value in Ohms<ref>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface-mount_technology#Resistors</ref>. The resistors we use have a 3 digit marking: two significant digits and a multiplier. This means you can read the first two digits as you would normaly, the last digit tells you how many zeros to add:
* Next carry out the SparkFun tutorial section about measuring resistance: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter#measuring-resistance
 
* Are your measurements within the specified tolerance (5% for the beige resistors, 1% for the blue resistors)?
 
<br/>
 
Suggested reading for the following experiments: [https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/resistors#series-and-parallel-resistors Resistors in Series and Parallel]
 
==== Series resistance ====
 
* Add three resistors in series
 
* Calculate the total resistance
 
* Measure the total resistance, does it agree with the calculated resistance?
 
  
==== Parallel resistance ====
+
* 220 would mean a 22 and 0 zeros or 22 Ohm
* Add two equal resistors in parallel
+
* 221 would mean a 22 and 1 zeros or 220 Ohm
* Calculate the total resistance
+
* 222 would mean a 22 and 2 zoros or 2200 Ohm or 2.2 kilo Ohm or 2.2k
* Measure the total resistance, does it agree with the calculated resistance?
+
* 223 would mean a 22 and 3 zeros or 22000 or 22 kilo Ohm or 22k
* What can you tell about the total resistance?
+
* 224 would mean a 22 and 4 zeros or 220000 or 220 kilo Ohm or 220k
* Repeat with the three equal resistors.
+
* etc.
  
* Add the three random resistors in parallel and calculate or measure the total resistance
+
There is also a special type which is indicated as '''0R''', this is a zero ohm resistor. It is often used as wire bridge or as ''placeholder'' if there may be the possibility a real resistor is needed at some point.
* What can you tell about the total resistance in relation to the resistances of the individual resistors? (hint: is the total resistor larger or smaller than any of the individual resistances).  
 
  
==== Extra (Optional) ====
 
If you know that the resistance of a conductor can be expressed by R = &rho; * (l / A) where &rho; is called the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_resistivity_and_conductivity#Resistivity_and_conductivity_of_various_materials electrical resistivity] and is constant for the specific material of the conductor, l is its length and A is the cross-sectional area. Can you explain the results of your parallel and series measurements?
 
 
<br/>
 
<br/>
<br/>
+
=== Capacitor (C)===
=== Measuring Current ===
+
The capacitors have the same sizes as the resistors. However, capacitors have no marking on them. Instead they come in a variety of color shades. This makes them a bit harder to identify. The general rule is the lighter the color and the thinner the capacitor, the lower its value.
What you need (ask at the Interaction Station):
+
 
* Multimeter
+
<gallery>
* 9 Volt battery ''(5V in the tutorial)''
+
Image:1206 capacitor.jpg|several ceramic SMD capactors
* 9 Volt battery clip for in a breadboard
+
</gallery>
* 470 Ohm resistor ''(1K Ohm in the tutorial)''
 
* LED
 
* breadboard
 
  
* Carry out the SparkFun tutorial section about measuring current: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter#measuring-current .
+
The capacitors we use are all of the ceramic type and do not have a polarity.
 
<br/>
 
<br/>
<br/>
+
=== LEDs ===
=== Measuring voltage and current in a series circuit ===
+
The LEDs used in this lab are the smallest components you'll need to solder. They are of size 2012 (0805 imperial). Also remember that LEDs have polarity (you can mount them the wrong way) so you'll need to check what is the correct way.
What you need (ask at the Interaction Station):
 
* Multimeter
 
* 9 Volt battery ''(5V in the tutorial)''
 
* 9 Volt battery clip for in a breadboard
 
* 3 resistors random resistors
 
* breadboard
 
  
 +
<gallery>
 +
Image:Smd led.jpg|SMD LED
 +
Image:Smd_led_marking.jpg|Different ways of marking the polarity of an SMD LED
 +
</gallery>
  
* Add three resistors in series and connect to the battery
+
The polarity of and SMD LED is usually marked with a small dot, bar or arrow on the bottom side of the LED. If unsure use your multimeter to check the polarity<ref>https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/polarity/diode-and-led-polarity</ref>!
* Measure the battery voltage
 
* Measure the voltage across each resistor
 
* Measure the voltage across each pair of two resistors
 
* What can you tell about the voltages measured above in relation to the total battery voltage?
 
<br/>
 
* Using Ohms law for current (remember: ''I = V / R'') calculate the current through the individual resistors. ''Hint: Remember you should not use the total battery voltage here but the voltage dropped across the resistor and the resistance value of this resistor.''
 
* Using Ohms law for current calculate the current through the total resistance.  ''Hint: first compute the single total resistance of the 3 resistances in series and use the measured battery voltage.
 
* Measure the current through the circuit. Does it agree with your calculations?
 
<br/>
 
<br/>
 
=== Measuring voltage and current in a parallel circuit ===
 
What you need (ask at the Interaction Station):
 
* Multimeter
 
* 9 Volt battery ''(5V in the tutorial)''
 
* 9 Volt battery clip for in a breadboard
 
* 3 resistors random resistors
 
* breadboard
 
  
  
* Add three resistors in parallel and connect to the battery
+
= References =
* Measure the battery voltage
+
<references />
* Measure the voltage across each resistor
 
* What can you tell about the voltages measured above?
 
<br/>
 
* Using Ohms law for current (remember: ''I = V / R'') calculate the current through the individual resistors.
 
* Using Ohms law for current calculate the current through the total resistance. ''Hint: first compute the single total resistance of the 3 resistances in parallel (1/Rt = 1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/R3) and use the measured battery voltage.
 
* Measure the current through the circuit. Does it agree with your calculations?
 
* What can you tell about the currents through each resistor measured above in relation to the total current in the circuit?
 

Latest revision as of 18:20, 10 May 2017

Lab2: Making a circuit

Introduction

Circuits can be made in many different ways. During class we've seen:

  • prototype board (e.g. perfboard or stripboard)[5]
  • volumetric circuits[6][7]
  • Etching a Printed Circuit Board (PCB)[8][9].

There are still other ways of making circuits, for example using the vinyl cutter to cut copper traces, using conductive fabric, etc. A nice overview of other alternative methods you can find at the great website of KobaKant: How To Get What You Want. Besides a lot of other interesting stuff (browse through it!!) the traces making sections you can find here: Kobakant section on Traces.

It is even possible to (almost) entirely knit your circuit: The Knitted Radio, Drapery FM.

In this lab you will be making a circuit with your preferred method with exception of the breadboard. The circuit presented here is a touch sensitive noise making circuit as we build on a breadboard during the first class. In the schematic and PCB board layout file you'll find the right value for each component. Below is a description of the SMD type of components if you are making the circuit on a PCB. If you use any of the other methods you'll probably want the through hole components. These can be obtained in the Interaction Station. Take the list with component values with you:

Component Indicator in schematic and board layout Value Has polarity
IC 555 NE555 Yes
Resistor R1 220k (224) No
Resistor R2 10k (103) No
Resistor R3, R4 1k (102) No
Resistor R6 0R (0) No
Resistor R5, R7 Do not mount (yet) No
Capacitor C1 10uF (dark brown) No
Capacitor C2 0.1uF (micro Fahrad) (brown) No
Capacitor C3 1nF (nano Fahrad) (light grey) No
LED Led1, Led2 - Yes (green dot (cathode) points down towards board edge)

You will also need a 9V battery clip and a speaker.

The circuit

Components

You will find the following components in the circuit:

There are two main types of component mounting: DIP[10] (also known as through hole) and SMD[11].

  • DIP or through hole components have legs you stick through holes in the PCB. You solder the legs to the bottom side of the PCB.
  • SMD components have legs you solder on the component side of the PCB. Hence you do not need to drill any holes. This method of mounting components is the standard way these days as components can be much smaller and fabrication is cheaper (less drilling and plating of holes). Many more advanced components only come in SMD packages so it is a valuable skill to be able to work with and solder these components. However, as SMD components are usually meant to be mounted by machines some are difficult or too small to do by hand, so when looking for components be sure to carefully check which package you select. A good overview of package types, sizes and names can be found on Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface-mount_technology#Packages


555 Timer

The 555 timer is a very versatile chip. It can be used to create sound (like in this Lab), blink lights, fade lights, turn things on for a short or long time many more. Many things you would want to use e.g. an Arduino for can be solved by this little chip alone or in combination some other circuits resulting in a much smaller and cheaper solution!

The 555 timer chip, like many other chips come in a variety of packages. The most common for this chip are DIP and SOIC. We will use the SOIC version in this lab.


Resistor (R)

The resistors we will use are 3216 (1206 imperial) size resistors. This means these are 3.2mm long and 1.6mm wide. There are a variety of sizes available[12]. For hand soldering I would not recommend to smaller than 1608 (0603 imperial) although 1005 (0402 imperial) is still possible with some practice. Anything smaller is only practical for machine assembled boards.

The resistors have a marking on them indicating the resistance value in Ohms[13]. The resistors we use have a 3 digit marking: two significant digits and a multiplier. This means you can read the first two digits as you would normaly, the last digit tells you how many zeros to add:

  • 220 would mean a 22 and 0 zeros or 22 Ohm
  • 221 would mean a 22 and 1 zeros or 220 Ohm
  • 222 would mean a 22 and 2 zoros or 2200 Ohm or 2.2 kilo Ohm or 2.2k
  • 223 would mean a 22 and 3 zeros or 22000 or 22 kilo Ohm or 22k
  • 224 would mean a 22 and 4 zeros or 220000 or 220 kilo Ohm or 220k
  • etc.

There is also a special type which is indicated as 0R, this is a zero ohm resistor. It is often used as wire bridge or as placeholder if there may be the possibility a real resistor is needed at some point.


Capacitor (C)

The capacitors have the same sizes as the resistors. However, capacitors have no marking on them. Instead they come in a variety of color shades. This makes them a bit harder to identify. The general rule is the lighter the color and the thinner the capacitor, the lower its value.

The capacitors we use are all of the ceramic type and do not have a polarity.

LEDs

The LEDs used in this lab are the smallest components you'll need to solder. They are of size 2012 (0805 imperial). Also remember that LEDs have polarity (you can mount them the wrong way) so you'll need to check what is the correct way.

The polarity of and SMD LED is usually marked with a small dot, bar or arrow on the bottom side of the LED. If unsure use your multimeter to check the polarity[14]!


References