Mimaki How To - Revision history

Jhkos: /* Step 1: Test round */ added a solution

2023-09-07T08:21:54Z

Step 1: Test round: added a solution

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:21, 7 September 2023
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	[[File:StormLadyDeath Final print01.jpg \| 600px]]		[[File:StormLadyDeath Final print01.jpg \| 600px]]

	As you can see the white is extremely glitched and blotched. This is because there was shades of black happening in my original layer. It's extremely important to make sure the white is smooth without and shades, as even a 1% difference will show up as a white square on the Mimaki white layer. If you really want to stay safe I advice a vector base as there is no chance for missed pixels.		As you can see the white is extremely glitched and blotched. This is because there was shades of black happening in my original layer. It's extremely important to make sure the white is smooth without and shades, as even a 1% difference will show up as a white square on the Mimaki white layer. If you really want to stay safe I advice a vector base as there is no chance for missed pixels. If I changed my file to greyscale > bitmap in photoshop it would also have been smooth.

Wilco at 10:25, 3 March 2022

2022-03-03T10:25:53Z

Wilco: /* Step 1: Test round */

2022-03-03T10:18:11Z

Step 1: Test round

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:18, 3 March 2022
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	So first you need to choose a file. I started with this design, wanting to print it the cover of a brown book cover.		So first you need to choose a file. I started with this design, wanting to print it the cover of a brown book cover.

	[[File:StormLadyDeath.pdf\|1st Draftl]]		[[File:StormLadyDeath.pdf\|1st Draftl \| 200px]]


	You might notice that the image has a lot of nuances in color with little heavy contrast. This posed quite a challange for the Mimaki, so keep in mind that if you're not printing on a white basis an image like this is very challanging.		You might notice that the image has a lot of nuances in color with little heavy contrast. This posed quite a challange for the Mimaki, so keep in mind that if you're not printing on a white basis an image like this is very challanging.

Sterric: Created page with "In this wiki I will try and share my experience on printing with a Mimaki. I will be working with both a white layer, colour layers printed on brown paper and a gloss layer. H..."

2016-02-15T17:04:37Z

Created page with "In this wiki I will try and share my experience on printing with a Mimaki. I will be working with both a white layer, colour layers printed on brown paper and a gloss layer. H..."

New page

In this wiki I will try and share my experience on printing with a Mimaki. I will be working with both a white layer, colour layers printed on brown paper and a gloss layer. Hopefully with this explenation you will be better prepared before starting to print with a Mimaki. This is an experience article to help people get a better understanding of the Mimaki. I will be sharing my complete experience including the mistakes I made. So do not follow this wiki as a 'step-by-step' guide as you will be making the same mistakes I did.

== Step 1: Test round ==

So first you need to choose a file. I started with this design, wanting to print it the cover of a brown book cover.

[[File:StormLadyDeath.pdf|1st Draftl]]

You might notice that the image has a lot of nuances in color with little heavy contrast. This posed quite a challange for the Mimaki, so keep in mind that if you're not printing on a white basis an image like this is very challanging.

The Mimaki does not recognise pure white as a printable color. So for starters you need to cut up your design in one, two or three layers depending on your needs. For my image I intended the brown parts to allow the natural color of the paper, so in my design I made those parts white.

[[File:StormLadyDeath Phase1.pdf|Color layer]]

Now the light parts of the skin will also become dark as white is always printed on a seperate layer. Since the Mimake does not recognise white as a color you need to invert your basis so the Mimaki recognises the outline. For my image this would end up looking like this:

[[File:StormLadyDeath Alpha A5 Wit Final.pdf|White Layer]]

To find the out how to set the white layer please refer to the [[MIMAKI]] page.

Then for the gloss page follow the same logic as the white layer. White will be transparent, Black will be printed.

[[File:StormLadyDeath Alpha A5 SHINE Final.pdf|Shine Layer]]

Everything combined and printed on the Mimaki resulted in this booklet:

[[File:StormLadyDeath Final print01.jpg|thumbnail]]

As you can see the white is extremely glitched and blotched. This is because there was shades of black happening in my original layer. It's extremely important to make sure the white is smooth without and shades, as even a 1% difference will show up as a white square on the Mimaki white layer. If you really want to stay safe I advice a vector base as there is no chance for missed pixels.

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:25, 3 March 2022
Line 5:		Line 5:
	So first you need to choose a file. I started with this design, wanting to print it the cover of a brown book cover.		So first you need to choose a file. I started with this design, wanting to print it the cover of a brown book cover.

	[[File:StormLadyDeath.pdf\|1st Draftl \| ~~200px~~]]		[[File:StormLadyDeath.pdf\|1st Draftl \| 400px]]


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	The Mimaki does not recognise pure white as a printable color. So for starters you need to cut up your design in one, two or three layers depending on your needs. For my image I intended the brown parts to allow the natural color of the paper, so in my design I made those parts white.		The Mimaki does not recognise pure white as a printable color. So for starters you need to cut up your design in one, two or three layers depending on your needs. For my image I intended the brown parts to allow the natural color of the paper, so in my design I made those parts white.

	[[File:StormLadyDeath Phase1.pdf\|Color layer]]		[[File:StormLadyDeath Phase1.pdf\|Color layer \| 400px]]

	Now the light parts of the skin will also become dark as white is always printed on a seperate layer. Since the Mimake does not recognise white as a color you need to invert your basis so the Mimaki recognises the outline. For my image this would end up looking like this:		Now the light parts of the skin will also become dark as white is always printed on a seperate layer. Since the Mimake does not recognise white as a color you need to invert your basis so the Mimaki recognises the outline. For my image this would end up looking like this:

	[[File:StormLadyDeath Alpha A5 Wit Final.pdf\|White Layer]]		[[File:StormLadyDeath Alpha A5 Wit Final.pdf\|White Layer \| 400px]]

	To find the out how to set the white layer please refer to the [[MIMAKI]] page.		To find the out how to set the white layer please refer to the [[MIMAKI]] page.
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	Then for the gloss page follow the same logic as the white layer. White will be transparent, Black will be printed.		Then for the gloss page follow the same logic as the white layer. White will be transparent, Black will be printed.

	[[File:StormLadyDeath Alpha A5 SHINE Final.pdf\|Shine Layer]]		[[File:StormLadyDeath Alpha A5 SHINE Final.pdf\|Shine Layer \| 400px]]


	Everything combined and printed on the Mimaki resulted in this booklet:		Everything combined and printed on the Mimaki resulted in this booklet:

	[[File:StormLadyDeath Final print01.jpg\|~~thumbnail~~]]		[[File:StormLadyDeath Final print01.jpg \| 600px]]

	As you can see the white is extremely glitched and blotched. This is because there was shades of black happening in my original layer. It's extremely important to make sure the white is smooth without and shades, as even a 1% difference will show up as a white square on the Mimaki white layer. If you really want to stay safe I advice a vector base as there is no chance for missed pixels.		As you can see the white is extremely glitched and blotched. This is because there was shades of black happening in my original layer. It's extremely important to make sure the white is smooth without and shades, as even a 1% difference will show up as a white square on the Mimaki white layer. If you really want to stay safe I advice a vector base as there is no chance for missed pixels.